basin.jpg Water basin at Ryoanji temple, Kyoto Most visitors to Ryoanji Temple go to see just one thing—the rock garden. It's probably the most famous dry landscape (karesansui) garden—15 irregularly shaped rocks in a bed of gravel that's raked every day. It's been there since the 15th century, and is certainly remarkable. But Ryoanji has much more to offer. For me, the water basin just behind the main building is exquisite.

The basin is carved out of a circular piece of stone, but water trickles from a bamboo spout into a square cavity. Carved around the edge are four partial Chinese characters, which are completed by the square. Read together, they mean "I learn only to be contented"—knowledge for its own sake is sufficient. In other words, someone who learns to be contented is rich in spirit and character, whereas someone who may be materially wealthy is spiritually poor if they do not learn contentment.

]]> fountains.jpg Fountains in central Tokyo Between the Imperial Palace and Tokyo Station is a small park with no grass, but an attractive selection of fountains. It was created to celebrate the wedding of Crown Prince Naruhito to Masako Owada in 1993.

The fountains bring a breath of cool, fresh air to the city on a hot day. At night, they are illuminated, and provide a restful break from a city that never seems to sleep.

]]> kinkakuji.jpg The Golden Pavilion in Kyoto Kinkakuji—the Golden Pavilion—is probably one of Kyoto's best-known sights. Originally built in 1397, it was burned down by a mentally disturbed monk in 1950. Yukio Mishima's novel The Temple of the Golden Pavilion is based on a fictionalized account of the arson.

An exact replica was built on the same spot in 1955. The building itself, covered in gold leaf, looks rather ostentatious. The real beauty lies in its surroundings and the reflection of the pavilion in the glass-like surface of the lake.

]]> maiko.jpg Maiko—trainee geishas in Kyoto The real joys of Kyoto lie in unexpected encounters. Shijo-dori is one of the main shopping streets, packed with local people and visitors. Just as I started to cross the road, I heard a little clatter behind me, and looked around. There were two young women in exquisite kimonos, their faces painted white, and with cupid-bow, red lips. The clatter came from the geta, the high wooden sandals they had on their feet. Just like everyone else, it seemed, they were out enjoying a morning's window shopping.

This is a sight that you'll rarely see anywhere else in Japan, except Kyoto. The young women were maiko, trainee geishas, who spend years studying traditional song and dance. It's an unusual profession to have survived in a country that's now so modern, but geisha are respected for preserving traditional arts - and in a most attractive way.

]]> maiko_phone.jpg Every maiko should have one—a mobile, of course Maiko—trainee geishas in Kyoto—may be dedicated to the study and performance of traditional song and dance, but that doesn't mean they ignore the modern world. As I was making my way through Higashiyama Ward, I spotted this maiko rushing along the street, deep in conversation on her mobile phone. Making arrangements for her next appointment, or indulging in a bit of girl's talk?

]]> menu.jpg Menu outside restaurant in Pontocho, Kyoto Every city has narrow alleyways that are best avoided, even by the locals. But Kyoto has one alleyway that's well worth a visit. Pontocho is a long, narrow street only a couple of metres wide that's crammed with restaurants and bars. There are dozens, if not hundreds of them; and if you're adventurous enough to wander into even narrower side-alleys, you'll find a few more.

Some of the restaurants are very modern, but others seem as though they haven''t changed since time immemorial. The best way to enjoy an evening's meal in Kyoto is to perch yourself on a tiny stool at the counter of a restaurant serving o-banzai. It's hard to describe o-banzai other than as exotic, high-class, home cooking. The ingredients depend on what's in season, but include a lot of fish, vegetables, tofu, and pork. It doesn''t matter if you can't read the menu, because most food is laid out in small dishes on the counter, and served in tiny portions. A delicious, traditional night out.

]]> monk.jpg Monk begging for alms in Kyoto The area in front of Kiyomizu Temple in Kyoto is constantly thronged with tourists. It's a noisy, lively place. Yet apparently oblivious to all around him was this monk, quietly chanting sutras. From time to time, someone would approach and place an offering in his bowl. His only response was to lift the bowl higher, and then bow deeply, all the while continuing to chant.

It was December and bitterly cold. Only the thinnest of straw sandals lay between his bare feet and the flagstones.

]]> ryoanji.jpg Autumn leaves at Ryoanji temple, Kyoto Many parts of Japan turn into a blaze of colour in late autumn, as the leaves turn various shades of gold, red, and brown. Ryoanji Temple in the North-West of Kyoto is surrounded by extensive woodland, mainly consisting of maples.

The temple was founded in 1450, and is famous for its rock garden.

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